How to DIY Cute Flared Palazzo Pants

I made these very full, flared palazzo pants in a crepe fabric that drapes well and doesn’t fray. I’m going to show you how to draw the palazzo pants sewing pattern directly onto the fabric. 

The measurements I give will fit size S or 38 European and the waist is 27 inches (67.5 cm).

Tools and materials: 

• 2.5 yds (2.5 m) of 47 inch (120 cm) wide fabric
• Fusible interfacing
• 8 inch (20 cm) invisible zipper
• Fabric marker
• Measuring tape
• Ruler
• Scissors
• Pins
• Sewing machine
• Iron
• Zipper foot (optional)
• Serger (optional)

1. Draft the pattern

Fold the fabric in half widthways and place it in front of you with the folded edge on your right.

Fold it in half diagonally by bringing the top right corner to the lower left.

Measure 4 inches (10 cm) up from the two folded edges closest to you and draw a line across the fabric parallel to them.

Measure 8.6 inches (22 cm) along the line from the right hand edge.

Continue marking 8.6 inches (22 cm) from the same point towards the angled fold, to mark out a section of a circle.

Join the marks into a curved line.

Measure 12 inches (30 cm) along the first line from the beginning of the curve.

Draw a perpendicular line from that point to the double folded edge.

Mark 4 inches (10 cm) back along the first line.

Draw a curve joining the mark to the end of the perpendicular line.

For the pants length, measure 35 inches (90 cm) along the first line from the curve.

Continue measuring the same length around the curve to create the lower edge.

Join the points into a continuous curved line.

Cut out the basic shape of the pants and cut open the upper double folded edge.

2. Shape the front pants

Open the two lower layers at the waist edge only.

Measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) down the crotch seam. 

Draw a curved line tapering from there to the fold and cut it out.

Draw a line 0.8 inches (2 cm) from the straight edge of the two lower layers down the length of the pants and cut along it.

Open both layers out flat.

3. Center and inner leg seams

Pin and sew the front crotch seam with the right sides together, taking a half inch (1 cm) seam allowance.

Mark 6 inches (15 cm) down the center back seam from the waist edge.

Sew the rest of the crotch seam to that point.

If necessary, trim the center of the lower edges into a smooth curve.

Refold the pants so the crotch seams are at the center front and back, and sew the inner leg seams.

Finish the raw seam edges on your serger or using an overlock or zigzag stitch on your machine.

4. Waistband

Cut a strip of fabric 28 inches (72 cm) long and 4 inches (10 cm) wide.

Iron fusible interfacing to the wrong side.

Fold the strip in half lengthways with the wrong side inside and press.

Starting at the center back opening, sew the waistband to the right side of the pants, matching the raw edges.

Finish the edges of the opening and the waistband.

5. Insert the zipper

Open the zipper.

Place it right side down on the wrong side of the back opening.

Match the edge of one side of the tape to the edge of the opening and make sure the teeth are level with the top of the waistband.

Sew in place, as close to the teeth as possible. A zipper foot will help with this.

Attach the second edge of the zipper tape to the other side of the opening in the same way. Check that the top of the teeth are level on both sides.

Fold the top of the zipper tape over to the inside of the waistband and turn the seam allowance to the wrong side.

Hold in place with a few stitches at the top edge of the waistband.

Finish the other side in the same way.

As my fabric doesn’t fray, I left the lower edge unhemmed. A narrow rolled hem would also work well here.