How to Finish With a Hong Kong Seam

Keya Harper
by Keya Harper

A Hong Kong seam is a method of binding the edges of a seam on the inside, without making it too bulky. It’s particularly useful for finishing unlined clothes, but doesn’t work well on curved seams. So check out how I do it!


Tools and materials:

  • Fabric with straight seams
  • 1" - 1 1/4" (2.5 - 3cm) wide bias tape, unfolded
  • Iron
  • Sewing machine
How to sew a Hong Kong seam

1. Seam

Sew a seam and press it open.

How to sew a Hong Kong seam

2. Line it up

Line up the edge of the bias strip with the edge of the seam allowance, with the right sides facing.

How to sew a Hong Kong seam

3. Join

Sew the two together about a quarter inch (0.5 cm) from the raw edge. Keep the seam as straight as possible.

How to sew a Hong Kong seam

4. Baste

Open the seam.

How to sew a Hong Kong seam

Sew a basting stitch about a quarter inch (0.5 cm) from the free edge of the bias strip.


Line up the raw edge with your reference point, to keep the stitching straight.

How to sew a Hong Kong seam

5. Fold

Fold the bias tape to the wrong side along the basting stitch line.

How to sew a Hong Kong seam

Wrap it over the raw edge of the seam allowance.

How to sew a Hong Kong seam

6. Sew

With the right side of the seam allowance uppermost, sew along the inner edge of the bias strip.


You don’t have to sew in the ditch, but get as close to it as you can.

How to sew a Hong Kong seam

How to sew a Hong Kong seam

And that’s it! Of course you’ll treat the other side of the seam allowance in the same way.


This would be a beautiful finish for an unlined vest, coat, or cloak. And it's ideal for heavier fabric too, like denim.


Let me know in the comments if you found this easy to follow.


Next, check out my Top Stitching Sewing Tutorial for Beginners.


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