Flat Fell Seam Tutorial
The flat fell seam is a great way to sew denim but the traditional technique can be fiddly and time-consuming with the initial basting stitches and the trimming and pressing.
The method I’m using in this flat fell seam tutorial is only suitable for lightweight denim, up to 10 oz maximum. It’s still a very strong stitch and perfect for any seam that is likely to tear easily.
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Tools and materials:
- Lightweight denim
- Sharp scissors or rotary blade
- Contrast thread
- Sewing machine
1. Prepare the fabric
Cut both edges with super sharp scissors or a new blade on your rotary cutter.
With the right sides facing, overlap one edge over the other by half an inch (1 cm).
2. Join the fabric
Sew the overlap down close to the edge on the wrong side.
Work slowly in small sections and use a seam guide to keep your stitches as straight as possible.
3. Sew the first line
Turn the fabric over so the right side is uppermost. Fold the seam allowance to one side of the seam.
Use a contrast thread and pull the seam apart evenly with your hands as you sew.
Sew on the side where the seam allowance is. Make your stitches parallel to the seam and as close as you can to it.
4. Sew the second line
Sew a second line of stitches parallel to the previous one and on the same side of the fold.
I use the edge of my presser foot to keep the lines even and the correct distance apart.
Steam press the seam on both sides for the best finish.
You’ll have a seam that looks just like a traditional flat fell seam from the right side.
It is bulkier on the reverse because the fabric isn’t distributed evenly, but it’s a short cut over the usual method.
Flat fell seam tutorial on jeans
Let me know your favorite flat fell technique in the comments down below.
Next, learn How to Shorten Your Jeans AND Keep the Original Hem.
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